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Re: Barn Floor (?? for micro)/ De, Zim

By: micro in POPE 5 | Recommend this post (0)
Tue, 02 Jul 19 2:11 PM | 49 view(s)
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Msg. 35387 of 62138
(This msg. is a reply to 35343 by Zimbler0)

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Good morning everyone! Beautiful day here in the Ohio Valley!

I was working last night with a customer/client until 8:00 p.m. trying to solve an almost impossible problem and dilemna he was having.
I finally would up steering him to a competitor for the correct formulation that meet what HIS customer is looking for. It was the right thing to do. Hopefully my client realizes that I am willing to do whatever it takes to get them the best advice and counsel to handle their problems in the best manner even if it means I direct them to another resource I have nothing to do with...
Problem solved...

Now then, let's talk a sec about under coatings. My world deals primarily things that are manufactured out of metals of various types, whether ferrous or non ferrous.

Here, in De's barn, we are dealing with a whole different animal, wood.

Let me illustrate what I want you to consider.

There are some very specific specifications in testuing of durability and ratings of coatings applied to various metal substrates and those specifications have standardized tests that must pass various agencies, including military, aka, Federal Standard.

I had a client who manufactured horse trailers. One day I get a panic call because his customer has brought back a trailer where the applied coating was simply just peeling and sheeting off the metal surface after having been on for less than 3 months.

I went to the plant and spent two days there. Tuirns out that he had underneath the coating that I had formulated specifically for his requirements was the culprit and not the finish topcpat of exceptionally long lasting and durable wet looking Red. In Ohio this would have stayed looking like new for about 15 years...

However, due to the uindercoat that I had no control over, it lasted less than a year.

This being stated, it is always an adventure whent trying to get one type of coating to actually bond and interlink molecularly with a different type of coating.

Secondly, you are at the mercy of whatever performance durability that the bottom layer provides because when that begins to deteriorate, everything on top of it will also.

I am a huge proponent of keeping things straight forward and not introducing additional things that CAN go awry later.

Yes, epoxy coatings are designed for TOUGHNESS and mar and scratch resistance. They have a high pencil hardness surface hardness compared to say a polyester resin.

This is why in my opinion, I would be looking at a single application of a product that is designed to adhere to wood and has some type of longevity beyond a couple years. This could be a clear sealer or a colored sealer.

Just keep inmind that if you apply something underneath that your length of service is only as good as what is at the surface of the wood no matter how god is may be in bonding with the topcoat. The weakest link of the chain is still in play...

Jus something to consider....

My best,

micro....


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The above is a reply to the following message:
Re: Barn Floor (?? for micro)
By: Zimbler0
in POPE 5
Tue, 02 Jul 19 1:16 AM
Msg. 35343 of 62138

Can Epoxy Paint Be Applied to Wood Floors?

http://www.hunker.com/12000202/can-epoxy-paint-be-applied-to-wood-floors

Epoxy paint is a 2-part coating, consisting of a catalyst and a resin. When combined, these two components harden into a durable coating, able to withstand a great amount of duress. Epoxy paint is ideal for concrete surfaces, such as in basements and garages; it can also be used to coat wood floors. However, before the wood will accept the epoxy, a few important preparation steps are required.

Wood floors coated with varnish or sealer are not conducive to epoxy paint adhesion. These coatings should be removed, using a palm or power sander before application begins.

Bare wood surfaces are ill-suited for paint adhesion. Before epoxy paint will adhere to a wood floor, it must be coated with an acrylic latex primer. The primer should be applied, using a roller affixed to a rolling pole. The primed wooden floors must dry for at least three hours before they are ready for epoxy paint.

>>>

(Article does continue . . . Zim.)

Did you try asking your contractor?


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